And now, the new leader

Different materials are best in different situations

What makes a good leader? For anglers, the answer is not someone that is wise, fair and charismatic, but simply the most- effective way of connecting a hook or lure to the line coming off a reel. Depending on the circumstances, application and targeted species, a leader may be made of a variety of materials. The most common are monofilament, fluorocarbon, single-strand wire, stranded wire, braided cable and hybrids. Titanium leader material was introduced several years ago.

Let’s begin with a few basics. Monofilament and fluorocarbon are more flexible and generally easy to work with but are easily bitten through. Wire, cable and titanium are much more tooth-resistant but are stiffer and more difficult to make proper connections, plus they may kink or pinch and break. There is no ideal material for all leaders, and there are applications when each material is superior.

Mono and fluorocarbon are probably used the most. At a passing glance, mono and fluoro appear similar but have several notable differences. There are many different formulas for mono that accent the different properties of being stiff, flexible, extra abrasion-resistant, shock-resistant, less stretch and more. In addition, colors or tinting can  be added to mono and increases or decreases its visibility.

Fluorocarbon’s biggest claim to fame is that it is less visible than mono. It is also a stiffer material, with generally good abrasion-resistance. However, fluoro is prone to slippage and/or breaking with some knots that work well with mono.

Many fishermen began using fluorocarbon simply because it has a lower light-refractive index and is the least visible of all leader materials when under water. There are numerous stories about a day the fish wouldn’t bite and simply switching to a fluorocarbon leader brought them to life.

Unfortunately, there are reports of knots that work well in mono slipping and/or breaking when used with fluorocarbon. I believe over the years the manufacturers of fluorocarbon have developed better standards, and the quality of their lines has improved. I had a few incidents early on but have been using fluorocarbon for a while, with no recent serious mishaps. However, I have narrowed the knots I use with fluoro to a few I have had no issues with breaking and/or slipping. Read the manufacturers recommendations and learn to tie the knots they recommend for fluorocarbon. Even accomplished fishermen have lost fish when knots that would have held in mono slipped or broke.

For lighter leaders, I have enjoyed the best success for joining fluoro to mono or braided line using a surgeon’s knot, but passing the ends through the loop a third time before pulling it down to tighten it. This knot cushions the fluorocarbon well, so it doesn’t develop a flat spot that could break, and the knot doesn’t slip. This knot also helps prevent the superbraid lines from slipping; I also use it to attach mono leaders to braid.

For the knot on the hook end, I use either a uni-knot (for a tight knot) or a no-slip loop knot (for a loop knot). When tying knots in mono, it is always wise to lubricate the line before pulling the knot tight, but mono is pretty durable and will take some abuse without breaking. It is imperative to lubricate the fluorocarbon well before tightening the knot. If the knot slides too hard or rolls, the extra pressure on one loop may cause it to flat-spot, and it could break and the knot fail.

When making heavier leaders for applications such as offshore trolling, I prefer to crimp fluorocarbon. This keeps the loop open, and there is no friction and heat from tightening the knot. A double-crimp sleeve is the proper sleeve to use with fluorocarbon; it is very important to use the right size. With mono, you can often get away with using a size larger or smaller and just crimping it down. But too large with fluorocarbon may slip and too small may crush the line; it loses its structural integrity and may break below its rated strength.

Monofilament is the alternative to fluorocarbon. Its weakest link is that it isn’t quite as low-visibility as fluorocarbon. That can be helped by using a dull green or smoky gray color. Tests have shown these colors to be the least visible. While not as low a visibility as fluorocarbon, they are less visible than even clear mono in most situations.

The same principles of knots and crimps apply to mono, except that mono is more forgiving and easier to work with. Knots that slip in fluorocarbon hold and crimps that might slip or rupture in fluorocarbon stay intact with monofilament. My philosophy is that even though simpler knots will hold, I use the same ones as I use with fluorocarbon. This gives me lots of practice tying those knots and a high margin of error if the knot isn’t tied perfectly.

The biggest advantage with a wire leader is that it is more bite-resistant. I would like to say bite-proof, but there are some fish with choppers so sharp they will gnaw through stranded wire or cable in a long fight and can kink single strand wire and cause it to break.

Single-strand wire is just what it says: a single strand of wire. The proper connection for single-strand is a loop formed using a combination of several turns of a haywire twist first, followed by several turns of a barrel twist. Stranded wire is made from several strands of lighter wire, usually seven, being braided or twisted together to make a stronger wire. Cable is several runs of stranded wire that are twisted together for even more strength.

Connections may be made in lighter stranded wire by using Figure-8 knots. I know they don’t look it, but they hold fine. In heavier stranded wire and cable, crimps are the best connectors. With stranded wire and cable, single sleeve crimps work better as the wire or cable is compressed together and its texture grips the other side of the loop and helps prevent slipping.

Hybrid leaders use a combination of monofilament and wire. They begin with a length of wire running the first six inches to a foot above the lure to prevent bite-offs and transition to mono for the remainder of the leader so it is easier to handle and less visible. I have experimented using fluorocarbon instead of mono but haven’t found a knot that doesn’t pinch or otherwise stress the fluoro and cause occasional breaks. A swivel this close to the lure seems to slow the lure’s action and put the fish off. I use an Albright Special knot to join the wire and mono and have good success with it using single and stranded wire.

Titanium is the newest wire leader, and there are braided and single-strand versions. I have experimented but haven’t yet gotten comfortable with the knots used, and titanium is expensive. Several top king mackerel tournament fishermen speak highly of titanium leaders.

As you can see, there are multiple variables when selecting a leader. The fish, the lure, water visibility and more are all factors to consider. In the long run, selecting a leader is pretty simple; it just needs to be up to the task of not spooking fish and keeping them on your line long enough for a personal introduction.

Good fishing.