I am not a fly-fisher; I have caught some fish using the buggywhip rod, but calling me a fly-fisher would be comparable to calling the Wright brothers astronauts. However, I am smart enough to realize what I don’t know and pay attention when good information is offered.
Last fall, I attended a presentation that Bobby Sands of Southport gave for the Cape Fear Flyfishers Club, and I learned more about fly-fishing in that evening than I had to date. Sands was generous enough to share his information with me, and it is the basis for a greatly simplified introduction to fly-fishing for fishermen who may be considering trying it.
Fly Rods
The rod is what generates the power to cast the fly, and then it serves to fight the fish. The technology and chemistry of rod construction is ever-changing and constantly evolving. Materials used in fly rods range from split bamboo (handmade and very pricey) to fiberglass (relatively inexpensive) to hand-laid graphite and boron (best performance and versatility).
While lengths may vary, fly rods are differentiated by a characteristic referred to as “weight,” which refers to the weight of the line the rod is designed to use. Weights range from 1 through 14, with the smaller weights for lighter lines and smaller fish, such as freshwater trout and sunfish. The mid-weights are for larger freshwater trout and salmon, plus inshore saltwater species. The heavier weights are for fishermen targeting big fish, primarily large salmon and larger saltwater fish.
Rods also have a flex factor or action. Full flex is a slow action that allows the rod to bend equally along its entire length, and it is generally found on lighter rods. Mid-flex rods have a medium action that is a 2-stage bend beginning with a softer tip and becoming stiffer in the midsection. Tip flex is a very fast action that has almost all of the rod’s flex in the tip third of the rod and is used for fighting larger fish.
Fly Reels
Fly reels are not as complicated as fly rods. Most reels do not have gears and are single-action, with direct-drive. One turn of the handle equals one turn of the spool, and the spool does not disconnect from the handle when a fish takes line. If a fish takes line, the spool and handle spin, which created the term “knuckle buster” for those fishermen who don’t remove their hand fast enough when a fish takes off. A few different examples: spring-driven, anti-reverse and star-drag fly reels, but these are a small percentage of all fly reels.
Most reels are made from aluminum, with some less-expensive ones using graphite and some higher-end ones using titanium and other exotic materials. Fly reels have a drag system, with lighter reels often using a pall or “clicker” drag, while reels intended for larger fish use one of several forms of disc drag to give a smooth and stronger drag.
Fly reels are also classified by a weight rating, but they usually carry a double rating, such as 3/4 or 7/8, which means they can handle either weight line. The physical size of the reel increases as the weight rating becomes higher. Reels rated for heavier lines also carry more backing, and that requires the reel to be larger.
Another recent innovation in fly reels is the large-arbor reel. These reels use a spool with a larger center section and retrieve more line per turn of the handle than a standard reel. Large-arbor reels may also be slightly larger than a standard reel of the same rating.
Fly Lines
One of the primary principles of fly-fishing requires understanding that the line is what delivers the fly to the fish. Unlike fishing with a casting or spinning outfit where the weight of the lure pulls out line and drives the cast, in fly-fishing, the fly does not have weight to pull the line, so the weight of the line must carry the fly.
In general, heavier flies require heavier lines, and lighter flies will cast well using lighter lines. This goes hand-in-hand with the need for heavier and stronger rods to cast the heavier lines, and this is where the need for different weight ratings originates.
The line weights are designated by the weight in grains of the first 30 feet of the line. The 30-foot measurement is used because fly-fishing theory says 30 feet is a reasonable distance to initially load the rod during the cast.
The abundance of fly lines is one of the most confusing aspects of fly-fishing for beginners. While many manufacturers offer more than 100 varieties, they can be simplified into two groups: those that float and those that sink. Basically, floating lines are designed to present flies to fish that feed at or near the surface, while sinking lines are designed to reach specific depths and with specific sink rates. After this, there are numerous tapers that work best with certain rod tapers and casting styles and speeds.
The more popular and more common sinking lines include: fast-sinking, intermediate-sinking, slow-sinking, sink-tip, slime-line and teeny-line. The model designation of sinking lines always ends with the letter “S.”
The more-popular and more-common tapers of lines, both floating and sinking, include: level, weight forward, rocket taper, double taper, shooting taper and teeny taper. The model designation of floating lines usually ends with the letter “F.”
Backing is the line used between the fly line, which is typically around 100 feet long, and the spool, and is it used to fight larger fish that take line after being hooked.
Leaders/Tippets
The leader and tippet attach the end of the fly line to the fly. Tapered leaders use a step down in leader and tippet sizes, and level leaders do not. Some purists believe level leaders don’t have a place in fly-fishing as they tend to land on the water harder. However, many fishermen have found numerous uses for them. Tapered leaders are more common and are available in fly-fishing shops.
Many fishermen prefer to make their own step-down leaders and use different lengths and diameters. The important thing about a leader is that it works with the fisherman’s outfit and casting style to give consistently good casts. A typical fisherman’s leader begins with a butt section, then has intermediate or step down section(s) and ends with the tippet. With large or toothy fish, a shock or bite tippet of heavier leader material is often added between the tippet and fly.
One of the most confusing aspects of leaders and tippets is the “X” designation of tippet diameter and strength. The higher the X number, the smaller the diameter and the lighter the strength of the tippet. A 6X tippet has a smaller diameter and lower breaking strength than a 3X tippet.
There is a formula to determine tippet diameter by the X number, but I find it much easier to understand in terms of pound test. It isn’t exact, but if you subtract the X number from 9, it will give you the approximate strength of the tippet. For example, 6X tippet is approximately 3-pound test. The exact strength will vary a little between tippet manufacturers.
Summary
Hopefully, this will give some of you enough basic understanding of fly-fishing to consider giving it a try. Having a friend who is a good fly caster and can help with technique will speed your proficiency with casting. Most importantly, the secret to selecting an outfit is to balance the rod to the line you will be using, which in turn is balanced to the type and size fly you will be casting, which ultimately is geared to the fish you will be chasing.
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